Taipei Michelin-starred Circum- inspired by intangible cultural heritage
台北米其林一星級餐廳「Circum」－靈感源自非物質文化遺產
| TAIPEI (Taiwan News) — Circum-, the acclaimed restaurant honored with its second consecutive Michelin one-star rating, has launched its first seasonal menu of 2026.
Under the creative direction of Executive Chef Leo Lo (羅偉誠), the new menu continues his exploration of the "Chinese Flavor Multiverse," using intangible cultural heritage as a narrative thread. The menu draws inspiration from Fujian, Hunan, Guizhou, and Guangdong. "In researching the theme of intangible cultural heritage, I discovered that every dish was originally created to solve a specific problem," Lo said. He views fermentation techniques as solutions for food preservation and medicinal food cultures as adaptations to local climates — wisdom that has crystallized over centuries. Lo said that the focus is not on the labels of heritage, but on how the techniques are utilized. Whether it is turning seafood into dried goods for preservation or using chili fermentation to expel dampness in humid climates, the menu serves as a tribute to everyday survival turned into art. The signature dish, sea cucumber and scallop, is a sophisticated reinterpretation of the classic Fujianese “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall.” Moving away from the traditional heavy jar, Lo uses a delicate steamed egg custard as the foundation. In kombu and tomato soup, the menu explores the Guizhou Miao sour fish technique. By fermenting four types of tomatoes for 10 days, the kitchen creates a vibrant acidic base — a nod to the ancient mountain wisdom of substituting salt with sourness. The most technically demanding dish is the A5 Wagyu, inspired by Lanzhou beef noodles. The broth requires eight hours of simmering, while the standout side — crispy beef tendon — undergoes a month-long preparation involving four hours of braising and 36 hours of drying before being deep-fried at 180 C. "We use precision tweezers to layer beef bone jelly and Wagyu slices like we are building a house," Lo said. The main course, pigeon, showcases Lo’s respect for ingredient integrity. Utilizing a non-exsanguination method to retain deep flavors, the pigeon is served two ways: a chilled breast poached with rose wine and wrapped in tofu skin, and a crispy, tender fried leg. Lo’s obsession with detail extends to the visual presentation. He meticulously stretches the lines of the pigeon leg to resemble the elegant limbs of a ballet dancer, a humorous nod to the exacting standards of traditional Guangdong Shiqi pigeon. Despite the constraints of a commercial mall space that allows only induction cookers, Lo has successfully captured the elusive wok hei, or "breath of the wok." By heating the cookware to over 300 C and using a torch to ignite the white smoke produced when ingredients hit the pan, he recreates the soul of traditional Chinese cooking. The evening set is priced at NT$2,880 (US$88), with a lunch set available at NT$1,880. |
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| Lyla Liu Taiwan News, Staff Reporter | |
| 2026-02-25 |
